TREKKING II: PINDARI  & KAFNI GLACIERS

This Jageshwar article provides information about trek to Pindari and Kafni Glaciers. By giving the first hand account, our intention is to share the experience which will help fellow trekkers in their ventures. Anybody can trek, provided they are able to match their experience to the difficulty of the journey they plan. Pindari Trek is called beginners trek, but it has all the ingradients of a good trek in a majestic Himalayan valley. This route requires minimum preparation and one just needs a rucksack, a sleeping bag, three sets of clothes and warm clothing. Any kind of sport shoe with good grip will suffice for this trek provided they have been worn before to avoid blisters. Sleeping bag and rucksack can be hired from NTMC Nainital, or Kumauon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) rest house at Bageshwar. Few days of exercising before leaving for trek, will tone up the body for the adventure. KMVN rest house at every 10 kms saves you from worries regarding accomodation on this route.

We  had decided to tone our bodies for the rigours of  Binsar Sanctuary the treks by  trekking  around  Jageshwar and Binsar near Almora.  Jageshwar is a small village about 30 kms from Almora. It is situated in a beautiful valley  surrounded by mountains covered with dense Deodar  forests. Jageshwar is famous for it's Shiva Temple. The Temple complex has 128 small and big Shivlings. We travelled to Jageshwar by Bus. From Jageshwar we trekked to Binsar Top.  Binsar Top is around 25 kms by rough estimate.  From the hill top near Jageshwar,  (called Vridhh Jageshwar), one gets a lovely view of  Trishul and Nanda Devi peaks.  Binsar is a  sanctuary full of birds and wildlife.

        Trek to Pindari Glacier starts from Song, 32 kms from Bageshwar. One can reach Bageshwar from Kathgodam (distance 170 kms) via Almora , or from Rishikesh (distance 380 kms) via Karnprayag . Regular buses ply from Haldwani for Bageshwar, early in the morning. Bageshwar, at a height of 800 m above sea level, has a KMVN rest house and few hotels. Song can be reached by travelling along Sarju river, passing the twin township of Kapkot and Bharari on way. Guides and porters are available at Bharari but a well charted route like A view from Dhakuri Pass this does not require a guide.

        The first stop of Pindari trek, Loharkhet is 4 kms from Song. Trekking uphill through barren mountains, one can either halt for the night in lodges at Loharkhet or can trek a km further to KMVN rest house.  We stayed at KMVN rest house, Loharkhet. The second day of the trek is toughest with steep climb till Dhakuri Pass. Route passes through dense tree cover of wet subtropical forests with a tea stall every 4 kms. An early morning start, helps in many ways. It gives more time to cover longer stretches. By reaching the destination before noon, one gets sufficient time for exploring the area around. One can also avoid the afternoon downpour, typical of Himalayan A View from Dhakuri Pass weather. An exposure in rain results in all sort of problems.

        Dhakuri pass at a height of 2800 m gives a magnificent view of Pindar valley. At this point, the trail leaves Sarju valley to enter Pindar valley. Facing north one gets a beautiful view of snow covered peaks Nandakot, Nandakhat, Mangtoli, Trishul and Nandaghungti as seen from right. Down below is the KMVN rest house, situated amidst a lush green meadow, surrounded by dense tree cover. The panoramic view from Dhakuri pass is breathtaking and a short break Tea Stall Near Dhakuri here will be refreshing.  Some people directly go to Khati  but we decided in favour of a night halt at Dhakuri Rest House. Further 10 km trek to Khati is mostly downhill.

        A small village of 60 houses, Khati (2300 m) is the last point where neccessities are available. Stream Near Khati Here Pindar merges with Sunderdhunga river and flows west to join Alakhnanda at Karnprayag. From Khati another trek route goes to Sunderdhunga Glacier and Mangtoli base camp. Camping gear is neccessary for this route. After Fields Near Khati running 16 kms parallel to Sunderdhunga river, the trail bifurcates. One path goes to Sunderdhunga Glacier 5 kms away while another ends at the source of Sukhram nala. Those with more determination, can try reaching Mangtoli base Camp by crossing Sunderdhunga Glacier.

        From Khati Near Khati to Dwali, the trek is along Pindar river, and is surrounded by montane type subtropical forests. Those who love the fascinating display of flowers of many colours and descriptions should reach here by the end of June. They will be welcomed by miraculous snowbridges and tumbling waterfalls. Those who desire to avoid dust and haze of lower foothills should undertake Pindar between Khati and Dwali the journey in mid-September to mid-October. KMVN and PWD rest houses at Dwali, are situated right at the confluence of rivers Pindar and Kafni. From here the trek bifurcates to Kafni Glacier in the east and to Pindari Glacier in north-east.

        Those visiting this area before May will find it hazardous to go beyond Dwali because Pindar near Dwali of deep snow. The trek to Kafni glacier (12 kms from Dwali) passes through beautiful meadows with snow covered ranges on south and barren rocky mountains rising majestically in north. From Dwali one has to trek 8 kms to reach Pindari Glacier before returning 3 kms back to last KMVN rest house at Phurkia. The rarified atmosphere tires the body quickly and over exertion could lead to mountain sickness, hence small but more frequent rest halts Enroute to Kafni Glacier are advised.

        Pindari Glacier (3800 m) is about 3kms long and a quarter broad. It comes from north-west and is joined by the Bankattia Glacier flowing from the east. Its rugged magnificence and grandeur inspires one with wonder and awe. The zero point provides a good view of Nandakot peak in east and Nandakhat in west. Quoting Enroute to Kafni Glacier an article from TOI, describing two new trek routes around Pindari Glacier - " Trekkers can take an uphill climb lasting 5 kms through a shepherd track to reach Chhanguch kharak 16,000- 17,000 ft above sea level. Where a beautiful lake, set in the surroundings of Nandakhat and Pindari Glaciers awaits them. The Kharak becomes a beautiful valley of flowers after the rains in July and August. Another route to reach Chhanguch within eight hours after crossing the Pindar river just opposite Mangtoli. Only seasoned Kafni Glacier trekkers can take this route, as it is a tough task to trek a zigzag steep climb through a shepherd trek".
 
        During summer of 1994,  trek beyond phurkia was closed because of landslides and falling rocks. So we decided to see Kafni Glacier. There is no rest house after Dwali so one has to  cover 24 kms in a day. This is not an easy thing at a height of 12,000 plus feet.  But there are lovely camping sites on way to Kafni Glacier. In 1994, the KMVN had started work on a rest house 6 kms from Dwali , at a place called Khatiya. Meadows at Wyalgar, surrounded by snow covered mountains   are a good and most popular camping ground for those on way to Kafni Glacier.

        In 1994, the lodging charges at KMVN rest houses were Rs 25/- per head and food cost was Rs 25/- per meal.

Map of Pindari Trek

Map of Kumaon